Saint-Galmier on foot: ramparts, church and rose garden

Starting point: the ramparts

You begin at the top of the village. The fourteenth-century ramparts still form a partial ring around the old centre. The stone has been turned golden by time, and moss has eaten into the north-facing sides. You can walk right round them without difficulty, along lanes that climb gently. Some stretches have been absorbed by houses: you can then make out the fortified base beneath a more recent coat of render.

Wear proper shoes, not smooth soles. The paving is uneven in places, and after rain some stretches stay damp in the shade. Nothing technical: anyone of normal fitness will manage without getting out of breath.

The church and its stained glass

The church is a few minutes’ walk from the ramparts. It was built between 1420 and 1471, which explains the mix of styles in different parts. You go in through the side portal, often open during the day, but the tourist office has up-to-date opening times if you want to visit at a particular hour.

Inside, look for the stained-glass windows by Alexandre Mauvernay. The glass painter worked here, and the morning light passing through the coloured glass throws patches of colour onto the flagstones. Take five minutes to sit in a pew and let your eyes get used to the dim light. What seemed dark at first becomes readable.

You come out onto the parvis, which gives a view over the village roofs. From there you can spot the Coise below, which sets your direction for the next stage.

Descent to the Coise

To reach the rose garden, you go down towards the River Coise, which runs alongside the village. The walk takes about ten minutes from the church. The ground changes: you leave the stone behind for a softer path, lined with grass and trees. You hear the water before you see it.

The Coise is not a major river. It is a narrow stream, with shaded banks and discreet bridges. In summer its level drops and reveals pale pebbles. Outside those periods it flows steadily and accompanies you the whole way.

The rose garden by the water

The rose garden covers 7,000 m² beside the Coise. You can go in freely, and the place is best explored at a wander. The roses are laid out in beds, with varieties that flower at different times. If you come in spring, the whole place is in bloom. Later in the season some beds have already been pruned, but the walk is still pleasant for the shade and the quiet.

There are benches. It is the kind of place where you stop for longer than you planned. The site is maintained by the town, with no hut or refreshment stall inside: bring your own water. The paths are pushchair-friendly, as long as you stick to the main ones.

You can hear the river from almost every point in the rose garden. That is what stays with you most, more than the roses themselves.

The Badoit draw-off kiosk

Heading back up towards the centre, you come to the draw-off kiosk at the Badoit spring. The water is naturally sparkling and has been exploited since 1837, when Saturnin Badoit started the business. The kiosk is open to the public: you bring an empty bottle and leave with sparkling water.

The place is modest, with no staging. You will meet locals filling several-litre bottles, and passing visitors tasting it for the first time on the spot. The water has a marked mineral taste, with a fine bubble. It is not exactly like the bottled version, because it has not gone through the same stages.

A few steps away, the façade of the old factory is listed as a historic monument. It is viewed from the street. The factory itself can only be visited on weekdays, as production stops at weekends. The tourist office handles the time slots and gives the conditions.

What to add if you have time

The main circuit takes an hour and a half without rushing. If you have more time, Saint-Galmier has other points of interest. The Hippodrome Joseph Desjoyaux hosts race meetings according to a specific calendar, to be checked with the tourist office. The Casino Le Lion Blanc is in the town centre. You can also see the glassblower Pierre Marion at work, by asking about his opening times.

For eating, the village has shops and restaurants, but we do not name any: things change, and we prefer to point you to the tourist office, which keeps an up-to-date list.

If you are staying in Saint-Galmier, this whole circuit can be done on foot from the centre. Our townhouse is within walking distance of these stops, so you can leave the car and walk back after your outing. The whirlpool bath on the ground floor is especially welcome after a day’s walking: the jets relax your legs, and the chromotherapy changes the colour of the water, nothing more.

Allow an hour and a half for the main circuit, two to three hours if you add the factory visit, which is only possible on weekdays, or a longer break in the rose garden.