A romantic weekend in the Loire: two days from Saint-Galmier

Saturday 9 am — First look around Saint-Galmier

On Saturday morning the town is still quiet. Start with the old centre, the 14th-century ramparts and the church built between 1420 and 1471, whose stained-glass windows by the glass painter Alexandre Mauvernay catch the low light. The walk is short; fifteen minutes on foot is enough to cover the lanes.

Saint-Galmier holds the Plus Beaux Détours de France label, an award for charming detours off the main tourist routes. You can see it in the stone, the façades and the way the Coise river runs alongside the houses. Head down to the river to reach the 7,000 m² rose garden. Even out of season, it is a pleasant place to walk by the water.

If you arrived the evening before, the whirlpool bath with jets and chromotherapy on the ground floor is a good way to start the day. If not, save it for Sunday evening, when your legs are asking for mercy.

Saturday 11 am — The Badoit spring and its bubbles

The Badoit spring has been exploited since 1837 by Saturnin Badoit. The water is naturally sparkling, and the drawing kiosk is open to the public. You can walk there from the centre. The façade of the old factory is a listed historic monument. The factory can be visited by booking through the tourist office, which has up-to-date times.

Even without visiting the factory, the kiosk is worth the trip. Fill a bottle, taste the water with its hint of salt and iron. It is a simple moment, almost ordinary, but it stays with you. Local children come by bike. Couples come at the weekend.

Note: the kiosk is not open all the time. Check the times with the tourist office before you go. The factory tour price can be checked on site.

Saturday 12.30 pm — Lunch and a glassblower

For lunch, stay in Saint-Galmier. Local products are fourme de Montbrison cheese and Côtes du Forez wines. You can put together a picnic or a plate. The number of restaurants is limited, so it is better to book or buy something to eat.

In the afternoon, push on to the workshop of Pierre Marion, a glassblower. Again, check times on site or at the tourist office. If the workshop is open, the demonstration lasts a few minutes and you leave with a unique piece. If not, a stroll around the town is still pleasant.

You can also stop by the Joseph Desjoyaux racecourse or the Le Lion Blanc casino, both in Saint-Galmier. Races and events take place on specific dates. Check the local programme.

Saturday 3 pm — Château de Bouthéon

Head for Andrézieux-Bouthéon, about 15 minutes away. The Château de Bouthéon is a fortress remodelled in the Renaissance. It houses the Forez interpretation centre, an animal park and a botanical park. Allow two to three hours to see everything without rushing.

The animal park appeals to couples who like walking without going too far. The paths are shaded. The interpretation centre explains the history of the Forez, from canals to farms. The collections are modest but well presented.

Opening times vary with the season. The price can be checked on site. You can buy tickets at the entrance, no booking needed for a standard visit.

Saturday 6 pm — Loire Gorges and sunset

Get back in the car for the Loire Gorges and the Grangent lake, about 25 minutes away. The road winds. The viewpoints from Chambles and the Château d’Essalois are accessible at the end of the day. Light falls on the lake, the cliffs take on an ochre tint.

If the season allows, the beach at Saint-Victor-sur-Loire is a good spot to dip your feet. The water is cool. The sand is coarse. Stay an hour, no more, just long enough to watch the sun disappear behind the ridge line.

For dinner, head back down to Saint-Galmier or push on to Saint-Étienne, about 25 minutes away. There are more restaurants in Saint-Étienne. Evening opening times can be checked on site.

Sunday 9 am — Montrond-les-Bains and its geyser

On Sunday morning, head for Montrond-les-Bains, about 10 minutes away. The medieval castle dominates the plain. The thermal establishment is still in operation. The geyser tapped at a depth of 502 m supplies the pools. You do not bathe in the geyser, but you can see the installations and understand how the hot water rises.

The town is small. You can walk round it in an hour. The castle is open at certain times. Times and prices can be checked on site or at the tourist office.

For walkers, you can extend the visit with a loop through the hillsides. The paths are waymarked. Wear good shoes, the ground is clayey after rain.

Sunday 12 noon — Pilat, golf or Saint-Étienne

Three options for the afternoon. The Pilat Regional Nature Park, about 40 minutes away, offers ridge roads and views over the Rhône valley. The Forez golf course at Craintilleux, for those who fancy nine holes. Or Saint-Étienne, about 25 minutes away, with the modern and contemporary art museum, the Cité du design and the Geoffroy-Guichard stadium.

If you choose Saint-Étienne, the modern art museum is one of the most important in France. The collections are rich. The building itself is worth a look. The Cité du design is a few minutes’ walk away. Sunday opening hours are often reduced. Check before you set off.

The Geoffroy-Guichard stadium can be visited on days without a match. Guided tours take place at specific times. The price can be checked on site. For a match, book well in advance.

Sunday 6 pm — Return and whirlpool bath

Head back to Saint-Galmier at the end of the day. Light fades on the ramparts. The Coise flows slowly. It is time to relax. The whirlpool bath with jets and chromotherapy on the ground floor is waiting. The jets soothe your legs after two days of walking.

Eat light: a slice of fourme de Montbrison, a glass of Côtes du Forez, bought the day before. The house kitchen is equipped. You can also go out, but the evening calm in Saint-Galmier is an argument in itself.

The next morning, check-out is stress-free. Online booking lets you leave at your own pace. Before you set off, one last turn around the rose garden or the Badoit kiosk, if you feel like it.